Friday, January 09, 2015

Ancient Ones


Cenotes are mystical bodies of fresh water that come from deep under the ground. Some are visible from above ground and some are down below the surface, and they create an underground network across the Yucatan peninsula. It is said that the Cenotes were a source of drinking water for the ancient Mayan civilizations and were also seen as a connector to the underworld and were used for sacrificial purposes as well. We visited the ruins and a cenote at Dzibichaltun, just north of Merida. It was a very hot day and a swim in this fresh, clear pool was so wonderful. There were little fish swimming with us amongst the aquatic plants in the beautiful blue well. We didn't realize that it closed so early, so we missed the chance to fully explore the ruins. We planned to be making several more stops to tour other ruins throughout the region in the coming weeks.

We both booked cleaning and exam appointments with a local couple who are dentists. They were recommended by our new Mexican friend and her family. We had the best time ever at a dentist's office. It was so much fun trying to communicate about mouths and teeth in Spanish. We had lots of laughs and left with gleaming teeth as a bonus. We plan to return to their office for a little dental work in the next few weeks....but in the meantime...


We learned about Dia de Los Reyes on January 6th being the kickoff to a few weeks of more celebrating.  It kicks off with a tradition of eating a Rosca de Tres Reyes, or a giant ring of cream cheese-filled Danish-type bread that is topped with red and green bits of fruit. Inside each loaf there are six small plastic babies baked in (health hazard??). These represent baby Jesus, and whoever finds the babies in each loaf has to make a supper of tamales for their friends and family on February 2nd. 

Well we were all using the Internet and sipping coffees on the night of this annual celebration at our favorite cafe in Merida. We had been in there a few times in the last week, so the owners invited the three of us to join in their combo Tres Reyes cake sharing and a birthday celebration.  We had a lot of laughs and Barba Grande got the first baby, so we promised to return to Merida for February 2nd to help make everyone tamales! We had better take some tamale cooking lessons...el vegetariano style. They also told us that you will have wonderful luck for a whole year from finding a baby in your bread.


In the meantime, my partner and I, and his mom and auntie all piled into our little Jetta and headed east toward Valladolid to visit the Mayan ruinas at Ek' Balam. What a magical place. The energy was very strong there and I could easily envision the ancient civilization that was once living at that very spot. We climbed up the long stairway of the main temple and from the top we could see over the entire surrounding jungle in every direction. Wow. The detail in the construction and the carvings was astounding. We stopped to enjoy a fresh coco frio afterward. Yum!

Local Mayan artisans sell their goodies in every direction around here. The colors and patterns are hard to resist in the weaving, pottery and furniture. However, when you are in a small car with not much room to spare, and have no "home" to speak of, the temptation for home decor is only brief. I will just enjoy looking for now.

While in Valladolid, we stopped for a dip in Cenote Zaci right in town. It was a wild place. The cenote plunged down 180 meters into the ground and was a magical clear blue. From up at the top we could see lots of black fish that looked like catfish. There were lots of people from all over the globe visiting the ruins and Cenotes. 


After hitting the local mercado, we drove to Tulum on the Mayan Riviera. It seems to be a very touristy place with lots of young people. We discovered that accommodations were in very high demand. After practicing many times how to ask for a room for 4, we finally found a place called Casa Rosa, or Pink House. It was pink and surrounded by roosters who did not know what time it was all night. Part of the real Mexican experience!

We toured the Tulum ruins on the cliffs above the sea. It was a perfect day and the ocean breeze made it feel so nice in the hot sun. The iguana kingdom now rules these ruins. There were so many of them that it felt like a game to count them all. They were very friendly and loved having their portraits take.  

These ruins were so majestic overlooking the turquoise waves and palm trees. It must have been so fascinating to live in a place like that.

Ironically, tonight we have the best Internet service that we have had since we crossed into Mexico, and I am sitting in a mosquito-netted bed at an Eco lodge in the jungle. A symphony of crickets, geckos and the occasional bird (non-rooster) will sing us to sleep tonight.

 

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